Hidden features

Power supply for accessories and speaker connectors

The Deauville has pre-assembled cables in preparation for radio fitting. Therefore it's no problem to attach loudspeakers and provide electric power supply - in theory! What the Honda engineers had in mind when they hid the connector sockets thoroughly, I don't have a clue. For everyone who wants to mount a radio, a communication system or any other gadget, here is my practical experience. All information refers to my Deauville model year 2005.

The wiring diagram

Firstly, you have to "know the ropes". The Deauville wiring diagram indicates some connectors as option - but does not explain exactly where these connectors can be found. I re-drew a part of the wiring scheme which contains only the important details for our subject. The image is also available in better quality as a scalable PDF file. Wiring scheme for accessories

GermanEnglish
Sicherungskastenfuse box
Frontscheinwerferheadlamp
Bremsleuchtebrake lamp
Blinker rechts/linksturn signal right/left
Lichtlight
Zubehöraccessories
Uhrclock
permanente Stromversorgungpermanent power supply
Schlüsselschalterkey switch
Lautsprecher rechts/linksloudspeaker right/left
Steckverbinder hinten/vornconnector sockets rear/front
unter Sitzbank rechtsunder seat on RHS
hinter der Lautsprecher-Abdeckungbehind loudspeaker cover
rear connectors

Under the seat, nine wires split out from the wiring loom: four speaker leads (red, green/red, white, green/white) lead to the front, two (light blue and orange) are the right and left turn signal. The brown wire provides 12 volt when the light is switched on. To connect accessories, the two wires with the double jack are preferable:

Rear connectors: Where on earth did they hide it?

wiring loom and fuse box

In practice, the point is to locate the demanded wires. The picture shows a "stripped" Deauville without fuel tank and cowling - no need to dismount though!

Picture on the right: The wiring loom (blue) leads along the right side of the frame: From the front cowling underneath the fuel tank, past the fuse box (yellow) further to the back. The wiring loom splits out to the rectifier (green). This part looks different for some model years, but there is no difference in principle.

The wiring loom leads further towards the tail light, while it "dives" underneath the framework. That's the point which deserves closer attention - use a torch light, if necessary.

Conncetors for accessories

Here are "our" connectors - even if they are not visible at first sight, they are there! They have been fixed by the manufacturer to the wiring loom with black insulating tape. If you are lucky, you can see the coloured wires with their transparent splash guards from above, halfway behind the frame...

Picture on the left: Connectors (light blue) and ground at the rectifier (dark green).

The connectors "simply" need to be fetched and to be pulled a bit up and to the front! That's easier said than done: How can you unwind the insulating tape from the wiring loom which runs behind/below the frame? Cutting with a sharp knife is quite out of the question, because a lot of sensitivity is required to avoid damage of the wiring loom...

GermanEnglish
offene Steckverbinder für Lautsprecher und Stromversorgungopen speaker and power connectors
Masseanschlussground
loosen right pannier (1)

In order to do this properly, partial loosening (not removing!) of the right pannier is necessary. Preparation:

Photo 1: From the registration plate side, remove two horizontal screws from mudguard to pannier.

loosen right pannier (2)

Photo 2: Another screw attaches mudguard to pannier from below: Remove.

loosen right pannier (3)

Photo 3: On top of the pannier (nearly below the seat) there is anther screw holding the integrated fairing: Remove. You can skip this step probably, have a try.

loosen right pannier (4)

Photo 4: Inside the pannier you will find four screws with washers and rubber rings: Remove these but take a note of their position (e. g. upper left), they are different!

The pannier can now carefully be pulled towards the outside, which makes room for unwinding the insulated tape. I jammed a thick rag under the pannier bracing it.

The following work is a bit fiddly. I found a piece of steel wire (e. g. from a clothes hanger) to be helpful in pulling the cables up. You need a bit of patience: Where there's a will there's a way.

rear connectors (5)

Photo 5: The connectors are now visible between the right pannier and the frame. The wires with the yellow "2"-markers are the speaker-leads leading to the front. To the right, from top to bottom:

As a protection against wetness and dirt, I later covered the connectors with a little plastic bag, closed with a cable strap.

Connectors front/left (6)

Front connectors

Photo 6: Behind the speaker cover on the left hand side: Left speaker cable (white and green/white with yellow "2"-markings), key switch power (black/yellow, fuse F) and frame ground (green).

The two black cables with white flags "+" and "-" lead to the heated grips.

Behind the cover on the right hand side, you can find the cables for the other speaker.

Connector compatibility?

The round connectors are unusual in Europe, where 4 mm connectors are more common. As I could not find anything compatible, I simply soldered the additional wires to the cable lugs.

Many thanks to Andy B. for proof-reading. If someone would like to send me corrections, supplements or advice about this page, I would be more than happy to receive your email: deauville@es-ist-liebe.de.